Photographing Moving Water

Photographing waterfalls presents the photographer with the opportunity to create some very creative shots. When photographed properly, the photographer can make running water appear soft and almost ghost-like. This technique is not difficult to master, but it takes a fair amount of stamina and perseverance to achieve…not to mention some physical agility. This technique is best suited for cameras that have the ability to manually adjust the shutter speed and focus. Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) cameras are best equipped for this type of setup, but quality point-and-shoot cameras may work just as well.

Shutter Speed

In order to create the soft, flowing appearance, the camera must be set to either manual or shutter priority mode. By using shutter priority, the photographer can adjust the shutter to a slow speed while the camera adjusts the aperture settings automatically. Since we will be working with slow shutter speeds, stabilization is critical for this type of shot, which presents a unique challenge in itself. Flowing streams and waterfalls are generally located along rugged terrain, and carrying additional equipment may be difficult, if not hazardous. As an alternative, a couple of bean bags placed on an available stable surface may be adequate and certainly, much easier to carry.

Once you locate a body of moving water you would like to photograph, set your camera to shutter priority as described above (see the article on shutter priority for more detail). You will need to shoot at a slow shutter speed in order to create the illusion of motion in your photograph. Begin with a relatively slow shutter speed, perhaps about 1/8th of a second. You may need to experiment with the shutter speed to create the effect you need, depending upon the available light and the speed of the moving water.

Whenever you shoot at slow shutter speeds, there is an increased risk of introducing camera shake. Even the slightest vibration, such as releasing the shutter, can create a shaky photograph. One way to overcome this risk is to use the camera’s self timer in lieu of manually depressing the shutter release button. Using the timer is just one way you can increase the chance of creating a great shot.

Bracketing

Many DSLR and some point-and-shoot cameras are equipped with a bracketing feature. Bracketing allows your camera to capture sequential shots in burst mode at various shutter speeds. The advantage to using bracketing is speed. You will be able to capture more shots in a shorter period without having to adjust the shutter speed between shots. The disadvantage is that you will not be able to use the automatic timer since bracketing requires you to switch to burst mode and maintain a depressed shutter during the shoot. An alternative is to use a remote shutter release if at all possible. This will not only allow you to avoid introducing camera shake, but you will be able to keep your feet dry as well.

Focus

This type of shot is best suited for manual focus for several reasons. Since you will be shooting at a moving object, the camera may attempt to focus on the a floating stick, or the water itself. This will also allow you to concentrate on water moving over rocks or areas where white caps are generated by the moving water.

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